The Turkish Dip That Made Me Abandon Hummus and Never Look Back
A Hymn of Fat from the concert hall · spice map below
Movement Notes
I need to make a public admission that might cost me some friends in the hummus-loving community. After years of loyalty to chickpea dip in all its garlic-lemony glory, I have been unfaithful. The other condiment is called ezme, and it is a fiery, tangy, herbaceous Turkish spread that makes hummus look like it showed up to a party in sweatpants. I am sorry, hummus. You are still fine. But ezme is extraordinary.
The ingredient list reads like a roll call of the most vibrant flavors the Mediterranean has to offer. Tomatoes, roasted red peppers, green chilies, onion, garlic, parsley, pomegranate molasses, sumac, dried mint, and a generous pour of extra virgin olive oil. Every single one of these ingredients is a flavor powerhouse on its own, and when you combine them, the result is a condiment so alive with taste that it practically vibrates on the plate.
The method is delightfully rustic. You pulse the tomatoes and peppers in a food processor until they are finely chopped, then strain them to remove excess liquid. Separately, you blend the onions, garlic, and parsley until they form a fragrant green paste. Then you whisk together the red pepper paste, tomato puree, pomegranate molasses, pul biber, sumac, and dried mint in a serving bowl to create a sauce base that is simultaneously sweet, sour, spicy, and earthy. Fold in the vegetable mixtures, add salt, drizzle with olive oil, and stand back.
The flavor is almost impossible to describe adequately. It is bright and acidic from the pomegranate molasses, warm and tingling from the chilies and pul biber, herbal and fresh from the parsley and mint, and deeply savory from the tomato base. It dances across your tongue like a very well-choreographed folk performance. Every bite is slightly different depending on which ingredients your chip or spoon has captured.
I have served ezme at three separate gatherings now, and the reaction is always the same: initial curiosity, followed by a cautious taste, followed by aggressive chip-dipping and demands for the recipe. It pairs with everything from warm flatbread to grilled meats to a spoon held directly over the bowl when no one is watching. Turkey, I owe you an apology for sleeping on this for so long. You have created something genuinely special, and I intend to make up for lost time.
Score Trail
Source Reference
Original score log: https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/ezme